How to be a Vegetarian in Small-Town Colombia

Being a Vegetarian and Backpacking in Colombia

What it is like to be a vegetarian in small-town Colombia

I have been a vegetarian for 5 years. At home in Frankfurt, it’s pretty easy for me to be meat-free: there are tons of vegetarian restaurants, and almost every restaurant has a vegetarian option.

But before coming to Colombia, I was a bit worried about Colombian food. It seemed to consist only of meat-filled empanadas and arepas. Vegetarianism, moreover, is not widespread in the region - less than eight percent of South Americans eat no meat. While I really do enjoy food and was excited about tasting it in Colombia, eating meat wouldn’t be an option for me.

So… how would life be as a vegetarian living in a small Colombian town named San Carlos?

When I first looked for food in San Carlos, I got a little frustrated because I couldn’t find a strictly vegetarian restaurant. All I could find was chicken, arepas con carne, and meat-filled empanadas.

In restaurants, moreover, the first question would be: ā€œWhich protein would you like?ā€ They didn’t mean chickpeas, lentils, or protein-rich vegetables. Here, protein is used as a synonym for meat.

So what could I do?

I decided to only go for the side dishes and skip the meat. It was pretty good, because I could get all these amazing vegetables and fruits: fresh salads, tomatoes, avocado, potatoes, as well as fried eggs and rice. Delicious!

Talk to locals

As a beginner in Spanish, being a vegetarian can also be a great way to talk to locals. For example, it put me in a situation where I was standing at a food stand in San Carlos, looking for anything that doesn’t have meat in it. With the little Spanish I had, I kindly asked the woman at a food stand if it was possible to get something vegetarian. She was so helpful and kind, and offered to prepare ā€œtortas de lentejasā€ (lentil patties) for the next day.

Lentejas? Lentils? That’s a new word I can add to me vocabulary, yeah! During the next days I visited her food stand to get to know more about Colombian food. She kept preparing new vegetarian food for me, as well as vegetarian empanadas for other students. I really enjoyed sitting there and ordering this amazing food while watching the locals stop, get empanadas, and ride away on their motorcycles.

As San Carlos is a very small town with no tourists, the people are very interested in talking to foreigners. And that’s what always happens to me when I sit at the food stand. People talk to me, guess where I’m from, and ask what I’m doing here. This was also a great way for me to learn new words and practice Spanish. Trying out new food and speaking to locals at the same time – there are certainly worse ways to learn Spanish!

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